How To Sew Scrubs Tutorial

hello I'm Aneka from Made to Sew andwelcome to my how to sew scrubs tutorial over the last couple of weeks I havebeen inundated with emails asking for help and advice when it comes to sewingscrubs and the details that you might find in a pair of scrubs I know that anumber of you are sewing scrubs to your local Health Service so firstly a hugethank you for everything that you're doing now I've put together thistutorial where I'm going to be showing you how to sew a scrubs top and a pairof scrubs bottoms I've worked with a women's wear pattern and I'll pop a linkto the pattern that I'm working with in the description box below but the sameapplies if you're working with a men's pattern I've tried to cover differenttechniques that you might find in a variety of different patterns now thisis a long tutorial because I've put all of it together in the same tutorial withthe idea that it acts as a resource for you so in the description box below Ihave gone through and clearly detailed each of the techniques that I teach andthe time that you'll find that in the video I do not expect you to go andwatch the whole of this tutorial I just want you to be able to use it to helpyou with a specific skill that perhaps you're struggling with I share how to dopatch pockets inseam pockets how to sew trousers together a waistband withelastic or a draw cord then we move on to the top where we do the sleeves sideseams with slits and two different options for the neckline I show you howto draft the neckline that you see here for your pattern if you want to followmy technique for this and how to sew it and then how to do a more simplestandard v-neck the idea being that you could come back to this tutorial as youneed I know that a number of you are sewing scrubs in groups so do feel freeto share your group that you're working with in the comment section belowhopefully you might be able to connect with other people in your area you'regoing to want to grab some cotton fabric and I'm working with a thread that iscontrasting so that you can hopefully see my stitching but you're going towant to work with a thread that matches your fabric and the pattern that youchoose to work with throughout the tutorial I show you options for how tofinish the edges whether that be using the overlocker or serger or ifyou want to use a flat felled seam or French seam because perhaps you don'thave access to an overlock or a serger if you're going to do a flat felled seamor a French seam you may wish to change the seam allowance on your pattern so dothink about that before you begin now let's go and cut our fabric out I'mgoing to presume that you're happy with cutting out your fabric now I've goneahead and pre-washed my fabric and given it a good steam with the iron I foldedit in half with the right sides together and pinned my selvage edges togetherthen I have laid on my pattern pieces and I've made sure that the grain lineis parallel to either the folded edge or the selvage edge at both the top and thebottom and obviously you're going to need to look at the details on yourpattern to know whether you're cutting two whether you're cutting it on thefold or whether it's not on the fold go ahead and cut out your pattern piecesusing either pins and scissors or weights and a rotary cutter if youprefer once you've cut out your pattern pieces you're going to want to recordsome of the markings you can either clip into the notches on the pattern you canuse carbon paper and a tracing wheel to record the notches and to record anyother details such as the pocket placement or you can use thread tracingor tailors tacks to complete the same technique once you've cut out yourfabric you can continue the preparation by cutting out the interfacing piecesthat your pattern requires and fuse this or iron this onto those correspondingpieces now you've cut out and prepared all your fabric the next step is toconsider the stitch that you're going to use to sew the scrubs together and howyou're going to finish those seam allowances the feedback that I'vereceived is that the edges of the fabric need to be finished with an overlocker or serger and they can't be simply zigzaggedI believe this is due to the garments being washed at high temperatures if youhave access to a serger or overlocker you can obviously complete one of thesetechniques you can either sew press open your seam allowances you can serge theedges of your fabric before or after you have sewn the seam oryou can do this technique where I've sewn it and I have serged the seamanswers together I'm going to be serging or overlocking in this tutorial simplybecause it's quicker however if you don't have access to a serger oroverlocker you could do a flat felled seam and mysister that sent me some pictures of her scrubs all of them have a flat felledseam because the scrubs are actually reversible and you can use the seameither way up there are a number of different ways of doing this you can doa fake flat felled seam you can do a flat felled seam using a foot or you cando it and follow the instructions that I've got in a separate tutorial whichI'm going to link here this is just one of the methods but hopefully it willhelp you if you don't have access to a serger or overlocker we're going tobegin by looking at how to sew the pockets or patch pockets because I'mpresuming that you have a few pockets to sew on both the pants and trousers andon the top of the scrubs that you're making the first tip that I would liketo share is that I want you to make a template of your pockets so this is thepocket without seam allowances if you have a pattern piece you could simplycut off the seam allowances and you can make this in card or in paper the reasonwhy this is useful is it means it helps us to achieve perfect pockets so all ofyour pockets if you have more than one will be the exact same size and you'llhave nice sharp edges place your fabric with the wrong side facing up and takeyour template line it up so that you have the right seam allowances in theright place for me I've got one centimeter or 3/8 along the sides andthe hem and three centimeters along the top edge you're going to then iron theseam allowances around the template keeping the corners nice and neat byjust folding it like so the reason why we complete this step iswhen you remove the template you have nice creases showing the edges of thepocket on the sides top edge and bottom edge now we want to finish this top edgeof the pocket neatly creating what I've done here already on this one the firstthing you're going to want to do is you need to press under this very top edgeof the pocket again so in my pattern it's asked for a one centimeter 3/8press and then along my fold line it would be 2 centimeters or 3/4 of an inchyours might be different it might be 5 mil or it might be a quarter inch alongthis very top edge you can of course use a ruler to check that that you arepressing this correctly once you've pressed under the top edge you're goingto turn the pocket around so that you've got the right side facing up and whatwe're then going to do is to fold the pocket along the top edge with the rightsides facing each other along that top line of the pocket now you can use yourtemplates here again if you want to matching up the bottom edge of thepockets and then you would be able to press the top edge over itself like soleaving that small amount that you've press towards the wrong side on the verytop edge of the pockets this will hold everything in place while we go to thesewing machine at the sewing machine I want you to sew across this crease atthe sides from the top folded edge of the pocket down to where this piece offabric ends so you're only going to be sewing for in my case two centimetersit's three quarters of an inch and I'm going to do that on both sides until youget something that looks like this now I've gone ahead and sewn on both ofthese sides here whether it is a back stitch at the start and at the end I'mgoing to turn this around now so that you can see I've also over locked orsurged the three other edges of my pocket you are welcome to do thishowever I'm only doing this on one of these pockets to show you as a samplethat it's an option my sister's pockets in her scrubs nonewere overlocked resurged on the inside so I don't believe you need to turn thisaround to the right side by folding on the edge of that stitching and turningit through and you can use a point turner or a little shot tool just topoke out that little corner do that on both sides and then the final step is topop your template back in and give it a nice good press especially around thattop edge because what we're going to do next is go to the Machine and stitchalong this top edge so with this one I haven't obviously overlocked will searchthe edges that's fine and I want you to sew about two to three millimeters awayall the way along this top edge here you can join me at the Machine and I willshow you how I do this you want to sew an accurate even distance all the wayalong the top of the pocket ideally you want to be sewing approximately 1/8 or 2to 3 millimeters away from this folded edge I tend to sew this with the wrongside of the pockets facing up so that you can check your sewing thisaccurately you can of course use pins to hold this down now I'm using an edgestitching foot here which I think is one of the easiest options and I'm lining upthat middle part of the edge stitching foot with the fold of the fabric andI've moved my needle slightly so that I'm stitching the desired distance awayyou can also use the edge of your presser foot and the edge of yourpresser foot when you move the needle whatever works for your machine ofcourse you could sew this from the top side of the pocket as welland work out the semantics that you want to follow now I've pulled both of mythreads out of the machine bed to make sure that they don't get caught up onthe right side I've positioned my needle in right close to that side edge of thepocket and I'm going to begin with a small forwards and then backwards justto secure it and then I'm going to sew all the way along making sure that I'mlining everything up I'm using a standard 2.

5 millimeterstitch lengths but you can increase your stitch length if you want for this topstitching when you get to the edge you're going to want to sew as close tothe edge of the pocket as you can again suing one back stitch to secure it andthere you go trim your threads for a neat finish so the pockets been stitchedacross the top edge the final thing we need to do to prepare this to beattached to the garment is to turn it over wrong side facing up and perfectthese corners at the moment they're a little bit bulky so we're going to miterthem open up the seam allowances and what you want to do here is to fold inthe corner at an angle so that you're almost folding in a triangle shape youwant to match up the crease that you can see in the corner with the crease of theseam allowance here and the same along the bottom once you've done that you canthen refold up the bottom and the side seam allowances and you should getsomething that looks like this press in the angle matching up the creases likeso and then fold up the bottom of the pocket and the side of the pocketpressing it in once more and checking that you have a nice shape to the cornerof your pockets from the right side I recommend that you prepare all of yourpockets to this stage and now you can attach them all to the areas of thegarment this is batch sewing and will really speed up the process for you soyou should have marked points on your garment where the pocket needs to beplaced you may have marked them with thread throw tracing tailors tacks youcan use chalk you can even draw the box of the pocket if you want to a reallygood tip if you're new to this is to cut with the pocket out of the pattern laythe pattern onto the back of the trousers and then you can simply drawaround the pocket placement with chalk or a removable padthen you can position your pocket on like so match everything up and makesure that the other side is symmetrical you can pin this in place or headstraight to the machine without any pens if you have chalk lines guiding you hereis one that I've already completed you can join me at the sewing machine in aminute for a step by step of this the key here is that we're going to bestitching around the sides and the bottom edge of the pockets close to theedge of the pocket so sort of two millimeters away a sixteenth to aneighth of an inch depending on what you feel comfortable with you are going tobegin along this horizontal stitching line so you going to begin at thiscorner here you're going to have to stitch away and this width of thestitching along the top edge is only one centimeter 3/8 from the side of thepocket so you begin on the edge of the pockets where it meets the horizontalline you stitch out to the top edge one centimeter away from the side of thepocket along the top edge then you stitch down the side turning at thecorners along the bottom back up one centimeter along the top edge and then adiagonal line back to that horizontal line again you can do a back stitch Itend to do one or two stitches maximum forwards and backwards to secure ithopefully you understand the stitch that you're going to need to complete aroundyour pocket now I recommend that you watch this section first if you are newto sewing pockets on and then perhaps complete it with me so we're going tobegin at this corner here where the horizontal stitching line that we madeon the pocket meets the side of the pocket so I need to turn my work aroundand I'm going to end up with a bit of work in my machine but we have to sewall the way around so that's not preventable I'm going to lower my needleso that it is in the position that I want it to be in and I'm going to put myfoot down so that the front of my foot is aiming towards the top edge of thepocket one centimeter away from the cornernow if you remember we have to show this diagonal line first you are welcome todraw it on with chalk if you want I have marked in chalk the one centimeter fromthe edge of my pocket and you can do that with a pin as well if you preferI've just tried to make this clear for the tutorial now I'm working with myedge stitching foot and I find that when I teach my customers actually preferusing this foot because they get more accurate results around the rest of thepocket however I often use a standard foot and you're welcome to use astandard firts use the edge of your foot move your needle have a play with whatworks for you predominantly we want to be sellingclose to the edge of the pocket and you will see that in a second this firstsection we're just going to be sewing on the pocket itself on that diagonal lineso at the moment my needle is in line with the front part of my edge stitchingfoot I'm gonna sew one stitch forwards and backwards to secure it making surethat my threads are out the way and then I'm going to sew on the angle followingthe front part of my foot here where me your needle reaches the top edge of thepocket you want the stitches around the pocket to be about 1/16 to 1/8 away sosort of two millimeters away you kind of calls so a different distance away youcan see wider distance if you prefer it's up to you and obviously what you'remaking now you want to stop with your needle right in the exact position at atthe top of the pocket so sitting a 16 2 and eights away from the pocket edge 2millimeters then I can raise my foot and turn my work so that I'm going to bestitching across at the top of that pocket for one centimeter you can ofcourse use the hand wheel on your machine to sort of fake the last stitchto get it in the right place I'll show you that in a secondnow sewing along the top edge of the pocket and for the rest of the pocket ifyou're using an edge stitching foot I could move my needle so I'm going tomove it to positions to the left meaning that now when I so I'm going to bestitching exactly a sixteenth traits away from the pocket edge and I can lineup this front of my foot with the edge of the pocket and this is where the edgestitching foot is really useful so we saw that centimeter needle inlift the foot and turn so that we can continue down at the side of the pocketand I'm just lining up the pocket edge with the front part of my foot hereobviously if you're using a different foot that's totally fine you can use theedge of your foot you can move the needle position really work withwhatever helps you to get an accurate finish I'm going to sew down the sidewith the aim to stop at that bottom corner and pivot and turn so if youthink you're coming and you might be one stitch too far this is where you can useyour hand wheel on the machine because I can simply turn that forwards to do onestitch and if that stitch is too big I can choose slightly by lifting mypresser foot and putting the needle down where I want it to go and then turn thecorner you also might have a one stitch button on your machine so we're going tosew along the bottom if you sew a stitch too far you can simply turn thehandwheel backwards to bring that stitch back out pivot and turn at the nextcorner making sure that the needles right in the right place and sew up thefinal side of the pocket you can use pins you can use the chalk lines like Ishared with you to make sure that your pocket is in the right place now we'regoing to sew up to the top edge make sure that the needle is finishing rightin position I might have to make my stitch slightly shorter turn and sewacross for one centimeter I've got a little truck there to show me and then Ican lift and turn and now I'm gonna want to put my foot back down with the frontof my foot pointing towards where the horizontal line that you previouslystitched on your pocket is and I'm going to want to lift my needle because I needto put my needle back into the center line just for ease and you don't have todo this you can of course keep your needle in the position even if you'reusing the edge stitching foot it's just sometimes easier for it to be in linewith the front parts of the foot because then I know I'm sewing in the rightplace when you get to the end you can backstitch one stitch and then pull your work out just like so next we're goingto move on to the inseam pockets which you may or may not have in your scrubstry as a pattern now this is the inseam pockets from the right side so I've sewnthe pocket and I've also sewn the side seam attaching the front and the backtries our legs together let me show you this from the wrong side as well I haveused an overlocker or serger to finish both the side seam and also the pocketI'm going to share this method of sewing the pocket with a rectangle rather thanjust having the pocket opening out of the side seam this is because it willallow you to sew the pocket on the side seam out the use of an overlock orserger so you would be able to sew the pocket using a French seam and I have atutorial that shows you how to do that if you're interested and with thismethod we could then flat felled seam the side seam of the trousers take yourfront trouser piece and position it with the right side facing up take yourpocket bag for the front it might be the all your pocket bags are the same that'sfine and you're going to place it right side down so the right sides aretogether using your common sense when it comes to the shape of the pocket bagyou're going to put your hand into it use your markings on the side seam andmatch up where the pocket should be positioned and you're going to match upthe two edges of the pocket and of your side seam now you might have a pocketthat looks like mine if you using the same pattern as me with this sort ofrectangle cut out or you might have a pocket pattern that has a straight edgeeither is fine if you're using a pocket pattern that has a straight edge thenyour pocket is going to come out of the side seam all this will mean is that itwould prevent you from doing a flat felled seam you can still over lock orsearch if you have the same pattern as me your pocket is going to create thisopening or you're welcome to do this to your pattern if you like the look of itor if you want to have the ability to do a flat felled seam hopefully you can seethe chalk line that I've drawn on here this is going to be my stitching line soI'm actually going to be following the pocket shake that rectangle so I'll besewing from the side seam one centimeter which is my seam allowance 3/8 turningthe corner and then one centimeter from the pocket edge turning the corner againto come back to the side seam you can do that with your pocket if you would likeyou're going to want to start and end on the same markings that your pocket hasgiven you and you would just be that rather than sewing your seam allowancefrom the edge you would come in a little bit furtherfor example I've come in two centimeters from the edge or side seam of the fabricthe first one centimeter would be the seam allowancethe second one centimeter or 3/8 is this extra rectangle to give the opening likeyou've got here I have gone ahead and I sewed my pocket on using the rectanglemethod you may have chosen a different method now if you're doing the rectanglemethod like I've done here the next step is we going to need to cut directly intothe corner as close to the stitching as you can but not through the stitchingyou need to be brave here because if you don't cut close enough you won't get anice corner when we turn this around in a second and you're going to do this onboth sides you're cutting through both layers of fabric once you've cut intoboth corners you're then going to turn your pocket bag around and we're goingto give it a press and what we need to do here is to work it so that we'recreating that rectangle gap that's going to be the gap of the pocket so you justneed to cautiously turn the pocket on the inside if your corners are lookingpuckered it's probably because you have not cut close enough press the seamallowances open first and then you should be able to get a really nicecrisp finish around the pocket edge making sure that you can just seea seam allowance from the pocket side meaning you won't be able to seeanything from the front of the garment now the pocket is pressed we're going tohead to the sewing machine and we are going to top stitch around this openingthe distance that you choose to top stitch is up to you but remember thatyou do need to leave enough seam allowance to be able to sew the secondpocket bag on which is a centimeter so I'm top stitching very close about 1/16to 1/8 away so total of 2 millimeters and that's in line with the patchpockets and everything else I would recommend when you top stitch yourgarment that you try to be consistent with your distances one thing you dowant to think about if you don't have access to an overlocker the seamallowance is here if you have access to an overlock or serger you can simplyover lock or Serge them together just like I've done on this example ifhowever you're making these without an overlocker or serger what I wouldrecommend is that you press both of the seam allowances over towards the pocketso that they meet the stitching if your seam allowances are both the same lengthyou may want to stagger them like I've got here and we're gonna press that overand then press the pocket back on itself it does add a little bit of bulk to thatpocket edge but what it will mean is that when you do your stitching aroundin a second your top stitching it holds those seam allowances in place and willprevent them from fraying if you have a pocket with a straight edge you would bewelcome to under Stitch that pocket at this time now because you're not goingto be able to top stitch it like we're going to do with this rectangle openingin that case all you do with your pocket is you push the seam allowances towardsthe pocket and under stitching is when we're going to be stitching on thepockets catching the seam allowances and sewing close to the seam that joins thepocket to the trousers and you would just do that between the pocket openingall that does is it helps to keep the pocket staying inside the garment soit's a nice little added extra if you're unsure about under stitching I will becovering it later on get to the necklines section to topstitch the rectangle opening I'm using my edge stitching foot with the needlein the same position as I used for sewing on the patch pockets so that I'mnice and consistent you're going to stitch and then turn it around thecorner with a needle in lift the foot and sew down at the length of the pocketopening and turn around the bottom corner as well if you are doing edgestitching because you have a pocket that is in the seam rather than thisrectangle opening you can also use your edge stitching foot to help you get anice accurate finish there the next step is to sew the pocket bags together youwant to place the right sides of both pocket bags together lining up all ofthe edges you're welcome to pin this or you can head straight to the sewingmachine and you are going to sew all the way around from the edge all the wayaround the curve back to the other edge just attaching the pocket bags togethernot sewing through the front of the trousers usual seema lamps that you'reworking with mine is one centimeter 3/8 I have sewed around the outside of thetwo pockets to join them together and I have also surged or overlocked aroundthe edge of mine if you don't have access to an overlocker or surgery youcould do a French seam here instead the next step is to join the side seamtogether so the side seam of the front and the back I'm so right sides togetherand then you are going to sew along the side seam here I would recommend sewingfrom the hem up that's my usual practice and I've got a 1 centimeter 3/8 seamallowance this is where if you don't have access to an overlook or serger youcould do a flat felled seam here in that case you would position the wrong sideof the fabric together and you would need to follow a flat felled seamtutorial simple straight forward seam here you are just going to follow theseam allowance in your pattern and you can whiz all the way down the side seamof the legs back stitching at the start and at the endsbe cautious that you don't capture in the pocket bag or any aspect of thepocket opening that you shouldn't be catching in when you saw over thesection can be a good idea to pin the pocket bag to the front for trousers outof the way now let's head to the overlockerto finish this edge I'm using my overlocker with three threads and simplythe right needle making this width the stitch as narrow as it can be and that'sgenerally what I do when I'm finishing the edges of fabric now for this projectI am overlocking or searching the seam allowances together you are welcome todo them together all you're welcome to do them separately if you're overlocking or surging your seam allowances together you can do it relativelyclosely to your stitching line on the sewing machine I tend to use the machinefoot as a guide at the very front of your foot on most over lockers or surgesthere will be two sort of grooves or raised parts now these are in line withthe needle position so you should have one on the left and one on the right Iam only using the right needle when I'm doing my three thread overlock to finishthe edges of the fabric so I'm going to line up the stitching with the leftgroove and then that means I'm overlockingrelatively closely if you have over locked or surged Leasing lancerstogether press them towards the back and then it's optional but if you likeyou're welcome to top stitch along that seam that you've pressed towards theback I used my edge stitching foot and I completed at the same distance that Iuse for my patch pocket for consistency but you're welcome to do any distancethat you like you can increase or change your stitch length and you can also usea double needle or twin needle if you wanted to to create a fake flat felledseam look I have also surged or overlocked across the bottom hem of thetrousers you don't need to do that because when we turn that up later youcan turn it under a second time but it's optional if you want to over lock thatyou're welcome to do so next we're going to be sewing the front rise and the backrise to join the two legs together feel free to pin your pocket bags downflat so that they can't get in the way now front rise is just going to be theright of the fabric together and sewing aroundthis curve the same will happen with the back rise sewing around this curve hereboth of the crotches the front and the backhave been sewn and then over locked or surged pressing them towards the leftwhen you are looking at the wrong side so I've pressed the front one towardsthe left and the back one towards the left when the garment is inside-out thenext app is to so the in theme so you're going to be sewing the legs on theinseam the rise or crotch now has the seam elapses going in oppositedirections so that you don't have bulk there you're going to match a seam andyou can sew from the ham on one leg all the way along the inseam over the joinbetween the front and back rise and all the way down the other leg to the hemyou can sew this and then over lock this or surge this I've got a head and sewnthe inseam and overlocked all of the way from the hem of the trousers on bothsides all the way around the crotch and back down to the other side pressthe seam allowance towards the back next step is to hem the trousersso you can either simply over lock the hem and then press it up by the desiredamount on your pattern or like I've done you can press it under once and thentwice and then there really isn't any need for you to over lock this mypattern has e three centimeter hem so I've pressed under one centimeter andthen two centimeters in inches that would be three eighths and then threequarters and I have simply run that through the sewing machine sewing closeto the top edge the finest thing you need to finish withthe pants is be a waistband now my pattern actually asked me to get a pieceof elastic that measured 2.

5 centimeters one inch in width cut it to the desiredsize of the pattern stitch one centimeter across the end press open andthen actually attach this elastic to the top of the waistband so I would haveunrolled this put the elastic on the inside and overlocked them together so Iwould have had to have distributed the elastic so divided it into at least fourfront back and sides and to make sure that the elastic was evenly distributedas I was over locking it on then I would have pressed it down and I would havestitched close to the bottom edge and the top edge of the elastic now that isone option that you can of course complete however my preference is tocreate a channel and in that channel you can either put the elastic or you canput some cotton tape or something that you make as eights high cord talking tomy sister and her scrubs none of the scrubs she owns have elasticin them they all have tie cords so that you can adjust the waist easily so whatI have done instead is I've pressed under to the wrong side approximately 5mil or a quarter of an inch and then I've pressed over approximately threecentimeters one inch and a quarter and I've done that all the way around thewaistband now if you wanted to introduce elastic into this waistband you could gostraight to the sewing machine and you're going to sew along the bottomedge leaving an opening of approximately 4 inches 10 centimeters to be able toinsert your elastic I'd probably do it at the back and you can also top stitcharound the top edge I will be stitching around the top edge on the bottom edgein a second but I've decided to introduce some cotton tape therefore Ineed to have a means for the cotton tape to be able to come out of the waistbandto be able to pull and adjust the trousers so whatI'm going to do is I'm going to actually create a buttonhole and the buttonholeis going to be sitting on the front here and this is where the cotton tapes goingto come out of you could also put buttonholes on the very top edge of thewaistband if you wanted to that is actually where the buttonholes are mysister's scrubs trousers are because they're reversible or if you didn't wantto do a buttonhole you could put an eyelet or somethingyou just need a means to be able to pull the tie cord out of the waistband onceyou've pressed your waistband you're going to need to draw on your buttonholeand I worked out that I wanted my buttonholes to starts to point fivecentimeters from my center line you could probably do it a little bit morethan this if you wanted to this was simply based on a pajama pattern that Iused to teach so two point five centimeters either side of that centralseam and I would draw the vertical lines for my buttonholes now these cotton tapethat I've got here is two centimetres wide three quarters of an inch so youcould make a buttonhole the same size for this to fit through you want it tohave a snug fit therefore I'm going to measure 5 mil from the top edge of thewaistband and 5 mil from the bottom edge because my current waistband is 3centimeters in inches this is 3/4 of an inch so you'll be making a hole that'sthree quarters of an inch wide you can of course get slightly wider tapeperhaps two point five centimeters one inch would also work now you're going toneed to before you go and sew your button holes you're only sewing themthrough one layer so you're gonna be opening this out like thisand you're going to need to apply some interfacing onto the back you don't wantthis interfacing to be visible so just a neat little rectangle that goes directlybehind the buttonholes to stabilize them so the buttonholes following the methodthat works for you I'm not going to go into detail aboutsewing buttonholes here simply because I have a whole series on sewing them andit depends on the machine that you're working for the same applies for markingthem and cutting them out I'll pop a link to the playlist hereonce the buttonholes are sewn and cut you can then sew your waistband channelI recommend sewing the bottom of the waistband first I'm using the edgestitching foot to do that stitching 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch awayabout two millimeters if you decide that you wish to include elastic in thewaistband then I recommend leaving a gap at either the side or the back ofapproximately 4 inches 10 centimeters you will sew this up at the very endonce you've inserted your elastic if you're attaching cotton ties then youdon't need to do that because we're going to insert them intoe buttonholes at the front once you've sewn around the bottom of the waistbandchannel you can if you want to complete the same stitch around the top of thewaistband channel if you're introducing elastic you can sew all the way aroundat the top of the waistband channel you just need to leave a gap at the bottomto insert the elastic so now the waistband channel has been sewn you cantake the cord that you want you can use cotton tape or you can use somethingthat you've made to go through here it's totally up to you and with a safety pinyou are going to feed this through the opening try not to twist it as you goall the way around the trousers if you're working with elastic this sameprinciple would apply I said leave an opening on the side or the back use asafety pin to take it all the way around making sure that you do not lose theother end so I've brought the tie all the way around and out of the otherbuttonhole making sure that it wasn't twisted if you had a piece of elasticthat you were using in the waistband I would recommend that you overlap it flatlike so and personally I tend to sew a little box with sort of an X in thecenter of the box just to really secure it once you've done that with yourelastic you would be able to sew up the gap along the bottom edge of yourwaistband channel you would obviously have to pull the elastic to stretch itwhilst you do that the other little tip I have with elastic if you've chosen touse elastic in the waistband channel is to once you've sewn the wayschannel backup if the waistband to pull like this a make sure the elastic isevenly distributed around the waistband then I would recommend stitching throughat the center back and you can also do it at the side seams through thisrestriction the ditch of the seam allowance through the elastic what thisdoes is it helps to prevent the elastic from twisting so I tend to do that if Iwere applied elastic into my waistband final thing for this is to finish theends of your tie whatever you've used for this I'm simply going to trim themfold it once quarter of an inch five mil fold it againquarter of an inch five mil and then I'm going to run that through the sewingmachine sewing close to the inside folded edge so over the end of the tiesusing your preferred method you may struggle if the ties are quite thick inwhich case I recommend that you start in the middle so out to one side start inthe middle and so out to the other side and there you have your finished scrubpants or trousers moving on to your top the first thing you're going to want todo is to attach the pockets in the position of your choosing or whateverpattern you're following you may have them at the waist or you may have themat the breast area complete the pockets in the same way that you completed thepatch pockets for the trousers or pants if your back pattern pieces weren't cuton the fold you can sew them together and you can either press them open /lock or surge them or press them to one side now we're going to look at sewingthe neckline of the pattern I'm going to be sharing with you how to do twodifferent necklines the first method this is my favorite method and thislooks similar to the neckline that my sister has on her scrubs I will show youhow to draft a pattern you can use and how to sew this neckline then for thesecond method I will show you how to sew a standard v-neck I also have a verydetailed tutorial that I will link to here if you want more information aboutsewing a v-neck and this is the neckline that the pattern I'm using comes withworking with your front you want to firstly mark the stitchingline on that pattern so I've been measuring in from my v-neck edge 1centimeter or 3/8 because that's the seam allowance with it the problem thatI'm working with if you are working with a pattern that doesn't have a v-neckyou're obviously going to need to draw that v-neck shape first now I'm layingon a piece of patterned paper and I'm going to draw along one side it doesn'tmatter which of the v-neck drawing along the stitching line you might find thatthe v-neck is a straight line you might find that it has a slight curve in whichcase you need to use a French curve you will want to work with a nice sharppencil I'm using a sharpie so that it's easy and clear for you to see you'realso going to want to continue that straight line up the other side forabout 5 centimeters to inches and you want to record the shoulder stitchingline as well so far you've drawn the stitching line for the shoulder one sideof the v-neck and the other side of the v-neck by about 5 centimeters to inchesthe next step is to decide on the width of this placket that we want to attachto the neck so I'm going to be working with three centimeters which is an inchand a quarter but about 2.

5 centimeters one inch you could probably do a littlebit more as well if you wanted to and I'm going to now measure from thisstitching line three centimeters or an inch and a quarter and I'm going to drawthat on just like so and you can see that we wanted the other side of thev-neck to connect to this new line that we're drawing so we're obviously drawingeverything here without seam allowances you're also going to want to extend theshoulder across here like so think about the width that you choose to draft yourneck binding in and make sure that you have enough space to come closer to theneck along the shoulder line and that this point isn't going to be too closeto the neck and then we can add some seam allowances so you're going to wantto add if you've got a one sent to me two or three eighths seam allowance onyour pattern you want to add the same amount we need to add that to theshoulder seam we want to add that to this edge because this is the edgethat's going to sew to the top and we also want to add that to this edge onthe other side of the v-neck and then we can extend these lines to make sure thateverything joins up and this line here okay now what we're going to do is we'vegot everything that we need from the pattern underneath so we can remove thatpattern out of the way for a second and now what we want to do is we want tofold this along this line here so we can call this the fold line if you like andwe're going to fold the paper along that line and then we can cut this out youcan use scissors you can use a rotary cutter whatever works for you and we'recutting through the two layers of paper because we want this to be a foldedpiece of fabric on the garment remember when you're cutting lines you're alwayscutting away the line because that is extra after your measurement now youwant to open this back up and we're going to give it a gray line so we wantthis to be cut on the bias grain so the BIOS grain is going to be that 45 degreeangle which is going to give this a little bit of stretch now to do a biasgrain you can draw a little square and then you can hit through the cornersdiagonal corners of that square to give you a bias line the other good thingabout using a ruler like mine is that I can actually get a bias just by liningup the diagonal corners of these squares the centimeters on my ruler so that ismy grain line you may want to write that this edge is your shoulder edge and theother edge is your neck line and you are going to need to cut two of these on thebias and interface them and we can label thisyour neck placket neck binding but if you want to call it you can also removethis extra pointed corner that you've created by drawing the seam allowancessimply measure your seam allowance one centimeter or 3/8 from that corner pointdraw a line across and cut off the extra paperonce you've drafted your neck binding piece for the front you are going towant to check that's the front neck and the back neck we'll still sew togetheryou may need to make some amendments thereso I recommend folding over your neck binding and pinning it on to the frontas if it was sewn you're pinning the stitching lines together it can be agood idea to draw your stitching line across the shoulder remember along thisfront edge of the binding this is a fold of your fabric so there is no seamallowance here you can also draw your stitching lines onto the back neck andthis will allow you to double check how much extra if any do you need to add toyour back neckline now if I line these seam allowances on top of one another Ineed to be able to have one seam allowance to sew around the neck of theback because this edge of my neck binding is a folded edge of fabric itdoesn't have a seam allowance so I'm still going to need to have that onecentimetre or whatever seam allowance you're working with around the top ofthe back neck so you should be able to line everything up and you want to haveapproximately a centimetre 3/8 or whatever your seam allowance is for theback neck to sew it and you can see that I've added that extra piece of paperhere obviously do check with your pattern that you can actually extend theshoulder in this area and raise the neckline slightly make sure you haveenough room to do so finally you would need to also draft a new back facingpiece that was a copy of your back neck excluding your seam allowance doneCenter back if you have one I've gone ahead and cut out two fabric patternpieces using the pattern piece that we drafted for the neck binding I have alsocuts out two interfacing pieces and interfaced or fused each of thesefabric pieces finally I've press them in half alongthe fold line that we drew with the right side on the outside but the wrongside of the fabric facing up I recommend that you iron a small piece ofinterfacing this can be a little rectangle it can be a little circle andthe interfacing needs to be positioned right to where the bottom of that V isand this will just support that area because we're going to be cutting reallyclose to the V it will help to prolong the life of the garment as well this ishow we're going to be taking our work to the sewing machine in a second I've gotthe right side of my top facing up here let me explain what I've done withattaching these plackets now the first thing that you might want to do so I'vegot left placket right placket garment facing up and the plackets can go oneither way because they're folded it in half now the first thing you probablywant to do is to draw on your stitching line for both your v-neck and the bottomof your v-neck for the plackets this is optional but if you are a beginner Ibelieve that it will just help you especially when you're sewing your firstone so if my seam allowance is one centimeter or 3/8 I can just draw thaton using a removable pan or chalk just like so and you would do the same forthe bottom edge of these plackets here you can of course draw your stitchingline on all the way along if you wanted to just like so and you can just aboutto see the one I've already drawn on to the side now we are going to be sewingthis vina calm and we want this right hand pocket to be on the top so thisone's going to go underneath it's going to look something like this when it'ssewn and the other thing we want to do is you want to be catching in this edgethis seam allowance here into that seam on the left side of the placket so thatit looks really nice and neat we are going to take pin and put a pin in thebottom of that of V for the right placket and now and this is justsomething that just helps you understand I'm hoping how it's going to work takethat pin and put it in the bottom of the V of your mainfabric and then swivel your plackets all the way around until you have gotthe raw edge of the placket matching up with the raw edge of theleft side of your neckline and then you can pin that in place the left placketscan go down we're matching up the raw edges of the placket with the raw edgeof the neckline and we would want to remove this pin and put it through allthree nice so you should have your v-neck points for the left placketsthe right placket and also your neckline underneath you may want to draw on yourstitching line at the shoulder of both the placket and the garments and matchthose up but if they don't match perfectly don't worry the plackets arecut on at the bias they can stretch ever so slightly with handling and we want tomake sure that the v-neck is correct that's the most important thing so I'mgoing to pen the rest of my edges all matching up nicely first step at thesewing machine we're going to begin at the shoulder and we're going to stitchdown to the V stopping at the very point of that V so if I were to draw that onbut the pan is gonna be stopping here begin at the shoulder with a couple ofstitches forwards and a couple of stitches backwards and then you can sewalong the edge of the neckline keeping everything nice and flat following theseam allowance that you're working with as you near the point of the v-neck makesure that all our pieces are sitting flat as they should be and sew into thepoints that you marked backstitch at the points the next step is to cut into themain body fabric right into where that stitching is now you can do this at themachine I've just pulled it off the machine to show you the process so I'mgoing to cut right into the stitching not through the plackets and you want tocut really close to the stitching but not through it you need to cut reallyclose to the stitching otherwise if you look through it from the front sidethere would be a pucker then you should able to match up the right hand sides ofthe plackets with the edge of the neckline and youshould find if you've cut close enough but you're also including the left sidehere as well so you want to match everything upreally nicely just like you did before from the wrong wrong side you wanted tolook like this you're going to pick up this parts and head to the machine tosew from the dots that should be the point of your v-neck all the way upfollowing your seam allowance and you're going to want to catch the garment whenyou sew this from the right side it's going to look something like this if youhave a pucker here so I recommend pin it and pin it like I've done where I dowhat's called pin basting so I'm pinning where I'm sewing and then you can lookat it from the right side and you can say yes that looks right if you have apucker at the V points you are going to need to cut a little bit closer begin byplacing the needle at the dot that you created for the point of the V lift thefoot up and then you can just double check underneath that you are catchingthe garment fabric you're going to want to do it againstitch forwards and backwards to secure this and then you can sew up followingeither the drawn line if you've drawn one or your seam allowanceonce you've finished sewing your second side you're going to want to give it apress I recommend pressing it from the wrong side first and then from the rightside making sure that you do give the garment a little bit of a tug so thatyou don't have any creases or through pleating where the garment attaches tobe binding next we're going to finish the inside so if I turn this over it'sgoing to look like this at the moment and what I'm going to do is I'm going towhiz down here and here with the overlocker or serger to give it a reallynice finish just a little option if you don't have access to an overlock orserger I would recommend that you trim down the seam allowances that arecloser to the garment front and then you should be able to tuck under this topseam allowance and press it and in a second we're actually going to topstitch this from the right side so you should be able to catch this in your topstitching but the easiest way is to simply run it through the overlock realserger like I've done here I've whizzed down both sides using the overlocker andthen I've got a liberal of thread at the bottom that I need to tidy away so I'vethreaded it through a large ithe needle and we'll just thread that back up onthe underside next we're going to head back to the sewing machine and we aregoing to stitch a nice top stitch around the necklineup to you how far away from the seam that joins the garment to the bindingnew stitch I tend to keep all my stitching consistent on our garment soI'll probably do the same technique that I did with my pockets about a threemillimeter distance one-eighth of an inch working with the edge stitchingfoot but you can use any foot that you have for your machine you're welcome tomove the needle use the edge of the foot just do something that you can be niceand consistent with this top stitching or edge stitching now I'm lining up thecenter part of my foot with the seam that drawing the placket to the garmentand I'm move my needle to the left twice so that I'm stitching about 1/8 awayfrom the same and you're just going to work your way all the way along when you get to the bottom of the V liftthe foot leave the needle in and turn your work continue up the other sidebackstitch at the start and at the ends and you should be left with somethinglike this give your garment another good press andthen we're going to work to attach the shoulders and the back facing you wantto place the back garment right side facing up and position your frontgarment right side facing down so the right sides are together matching up theshoulders now you should find that you have extra of your back neckline hereand you need that because the back neckline has one centimetre and thisedge is on the fold so you want to start matching up from the end of yourshoulder seam you do not need to have overlocked the shoulders yet I wentahead and overlooked my front shoulders but you don't need to because we'lloverlock them all together in a second you're also going to want to take yourback facing this should have been interfaced and should match your backneckline I have gone ahead and over locked or searched the bottom curvededge of this and I would recommend doing that at this stage if you don't haveaccess to an overlocker or serger you can simply press under five mil aquarter of an inch and make sure that when you pin this to match the shouldersthat you're keeping it pressed under along this edge so you need to matcheverything up all of the wrong edges along the shoulders on both sides andalso the back neck if your neck bindings extend past the edge of the frontshoulder you can trim them off so they are in line next head to the sewingmachine we're going to be sewing across shoulders from the very edge where thesleeves are going to be inserted across and then around the neck and then acrossthe other shoulder one thing you may want to mark is this little point heredepending on how accurate your sewing is having a little mark can be usefulbecause you want to make sure that you don't catch the neck binding when youturn the corner this is a simple scene to sew just continue using your seamallowance make sure if you haven't overlapped theedge you're facing that you when you stitch over it it has been turned underso long following your seam allowance follow the marking that you have placedor just make sure you're accurate with your seam allowances needle goes infoots raised and turn the corner you don't want to catch the neck band in thecorner so that you have a nice finish when it's turned around exactly the sameon the other side trying to keep them both symmetrical so this is what thestitching should have looked like now before you get to trimming overlockingyour surging I recommend that you just pull this through and check that thejoin between the back and your neck binding is nice and neat you don't wantto have loads of back neck sticking out here and you also don't want to havecaught in your neck binding this comes back to making sure that the backpattern piece fits the front and that you're accurate with your sewing herewith your one centimeter seam allowance or whatever the seam allowance is thatyou're working with next you can chop off this corner nice and close to thestitching to remove any box and you're also going to want to cut into theneckline so that the curve sits nice and flat when we turn this around I've goneahead and over locked or surged all the seam allowances together and I will dothat on both shoulders which is why you didn't need to over lock or search themup to this point I've also gone ahead and trimmed away any extra bulk from theback seam allowances there I've just cut them nice and close to three millimetersaway from the stitching line okay next step is to turn this through and you'vegot a couple of options here you can either edge stitch or top stitch alongthe shoulder around the neck and along the other shoulder or you can top stitchjust the shoulders and we can understand the neckline instead I think I'm goingto use that method so I'll join me at the sewing machine and I'm going to beshowing you how to understand the back neckline and then we'll do thetwo top stitching portions under stitching is when you're going to bestitching on the facing so that the stitching isn't visible from the rightside of the garment but you're going to be catching your seam allowances so theseam allowances need to be pushed towards the facing I'm using my edgestitching foot and I've moved the needle two steps to the right so that I can runthe previous seam right into the middle of my edge stitching foot however you'rewelcome to use any foot that you have the edge of the foot is often a goodmethod of lining things up and you can move your needle you're going to beginas close as you can to where the shoulder and the neck join and this canbe a little bit tricky to get it all in place but once you're there you canstart stitch forwards and backwards to begin and then we're just going tostitch across the back neckline constantly checking that those seamallowances are going towards the facing and I'm just going to sew as far as Ican so again when you get to this corner of the neckline it becomes a little bittricky so just so as far as you can and try and be consistent where you startand stop on both sides if you would rather do the edge stitching or topstitching method you're welcome to do that instead back stitch at the end andthat's your under stitch seam there give everything a nice press beforecontinuing you want to press your facing from the wrong side making sure that youcan see its hiney amount of the right side from the wrong side you also wantto press your shoulders making sure that the seam allowances are going towardsthe back and that you don't have any pleating where you're facing joins theshoulder all from the shoulder front so you may need to give your fabric a bitof a pull here then we're going to edge Stitch the shoulders just for a littlebit of detail and to hold everything back I'm using my edge stitching footagain and I've moved my needle so that I'm stitching in eighths of an inch twoor three millimeters away from the shoulder seam you can sew using yourdesired distance you'll do this on both sides and you're just going to sew thewidth of the shoulder however if you didn't understand shore back neck youcould now continue around back neck and across the other shoulderand here is the finished neckline so the back neck I understood and then I edgedit your top stitched the shoulders as I said you're welcome to instead of understitching take that all the way around the back net and across the othershoulder final option is that you could go and stitch around the bottom edge ofyour back facing here again you could use that edge stitching foot's andStitch fun is to be close to the edge sort of two to three millimeters andeighths of an inch unless you've been stitching further away in all of theother places I recommend being consistent next I'm going to be showingyou how to do a standard v-neck option which is easier than this method if youprefer that option then continue watching otherwise if you've done thisand you're ready to move on please skip forward to the sleeve insertion all ofthe details in terms of timings for this tutorial are in the description boxbelow it's a complete a standard v-neck neckline with a facing you're going toneed to firstly sew your garment together at the shoulders and Irecommend that you over lock or surge them either prior to doing this orafterwards pressing the seam allowances openI've done the same for my center back seam but obviously if you've cut yourCenter back on the fold that's absolutely fine as well another littledetail is whenever you're doing a v-neck it can be useful to iron a little pieceof interfacing onto the wrong side of your front exactly where the point ofthat v-neck is going to sit this is because we're going to be cutting reallyclose into the V now you should have a front v-neck facing and a back of yourneck facing these need to be interfaced and they need to have the shoulders sewnI've also overlooked the shoulders pressing the seam allowances towards theback and I have overlooked all the way around the outside edge of my facingcompletes all of the process to this part and then we can attach the facingonto our garments position the garment with the right side facing up take yourfacing and position that with the right side facing down so that the right sidesare together starts by match chewing up all of the edges match up thev-neck shape match up the shoulder seams making saw that sure that the seams aresitting exactly on top of one another and pin everything in place you willprobably find it useful to draw on your stitching on at the very bottom of the Vif you're confident and don't need to do this do not worry if you are a beginnerI would recommend it so I'm measuring my one centimeter creates from the edge ofmy fabric I'm continuing it on past the V and we have to continue it so that itjoins up with the other side like so you only need to do it for an initial twoinch so 2.

5 to 5 centimeters either side of the V shape when we get to the sewingmachine we're going to start sewing one side of the V about five centimeters toinches away you're going to stitch down to the V needle in turn so all the restof the way around the neckline back to the V needle in turn and fivecentimeters up to the other side bypassing this area it means that we'rereally securing the V and just gives a little bit of extra leg over t2agarments trim away any excess seam allowance at four Center back and fromthe shoulders just so that when you sew across these you're not adding extrabolt into the seam start approximately five centimeters to inches away from theV and you can use the drill on lines to help you if you want to sew to the Vpoints put the needle in exactly on the points lift the foot up and turn yourwork foot down and continue to sew following your seam allowance around the rest of your face saying makesure that the edges of the facing and the garments are lined up at all timeswhen you get to the shoulders make sure that the seam allowances are going inthe right direction open for the garments and towards the back for theface thing and try and hold them in position so that they stay matched whenyou get back to the starts you're going to sew over yourself kneel in at thebottom of the V foot up turn stitch directly over the same stitching forapproximately five centimeters to inches the other side of the V back stitch andpull out your work taking a pair of scissors cut right into the center ofthe V as close to the stitching as possible then press open at the seamallowances between the facing and the garment body and you want to press rightup into that V complete the same all around the neckline and clip into thecurves if required once the seam allowances have been pressed open allthe way around the neck you're going to push the facing to the inside and Irecommend working from the inside of the garment working your way around ironingthe edge of the facing you want to see a very small amount of the right side ofthe garment coming through about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch for the bottom of the Vyou're going to need to give a small tug and you can work your way aroundpressing everything in position if you find that the point of your V is stillpuckering then you probably haven't cut close enough now usually when I'm sewinga v-neck I would go ahead and under stitch the neckline this means that Iwould push the seam allowances towards the neckline and I would stitch close tothe stitching line I actually do that prior to pressing and I find that I getreally good results doing that if you're interested in copying that technique Ihave a tutorial that shows how to do this I'll pop a link to ithere however the majority or should I say all of the scrubs that have looks athaven't actually had on the under stitching taking place probably becauseit's a little bit time-consuming and scrubs are something that generallysewed up quite quickly instead they're just stitched around the outside edge ofthe face thing to hold everything in place and this stitching is visible onthe right side of the garment to check that you're happy with your v-neck fromthe right side before you go ahead and do this and then you may wish to popsome pins in to hold the face saying in position and we're going to be literallyfollowing the edge of the face saying all the way around you can of course socloser if you want to this is really up to you but generally speaking most thescrubs that I've looked at as sewn right around the edge of the face saying andyou're welcome to curve this bottom edge also it's in the angles that itcurrently is in for this example I'm using my edge stitching first and I'vemoved my needle over so that I'm just catching the edge of my facing for easeof this tutorial I'm just going to be sewing the exact copy of my facing ontothe right side of the garment at those corners needle in lift the press effectsand work your way around complete the same process around the back facing andthere you go that is your final v-neck and I think this is a really easy way toget a nice technique and is less complicated than the first method that Ishared with you if you have done this v-neck you would then continue andfollow the rest of the instructions putting in the sleeves and sewing theseside seams now your garment may not have sleeves that you need to attach simplybecause the sleeves may be drafted in the pattern of the bodice in which caseskip forward to the side seam section we're going to position these sleeves inusing the flat method which means that we're going to be positioning the sleeveinto the armhole before so in the side seam the first thing you're going towant to do is to find the right sleeve for the right armhole so you should havenotches on your sleeve I have one notch here which means the frontof the armhole two notches if you have them would mean the back of the armholeand one notch means this Center which needs us to match with the shoulder seamso this is the correct sleeve because by one notch here matches to my friendarmhole now I can start paying the sleeve to the bodice I've got my garmenthere with the right side facing up this is the correct sleeve to fit into thearmhole so I'm going to turn it over with the right side of my sleeve facingthe right side of my garment and I'm going to match the top notch with theshoulder seam here taking my pins I'm going to pin this once you've pinned thetop shoulder notch you can then work your way down and you can pin the sideseam to the underarm seam of the garment when I'm pinning I'm thinking about howI'm going to feed my fabrics through the machine so the fabric is going to be onmy left as I'm sewing and then I'm going to do another pin with the front sideseam and underarm seam then you can match any other notches so if you've gota single notch for your fronts on the sleeve that matches the garment armholeyou can match those together and the same for the back generally speaking ifyou have any ease in your sleeve which means that the sleeve is larger thanyour garment armhole that is going to happen after the notches that arepresent on the sleeve and the armhole approximately three inches seven pointfive centimeters up from your side seam so this first part can be matched likefor like and then if you have any ease it needs to happen between the notch orthree inches 7.

5 centimeters up from the armhole and the notch at the top of yoursleeve that matches your shoulder seam and here you can just pick middle tomiddle and middle to middle to distribute the ease when I say middle tomiddle I mean I sort of eyeball the middle of the sleeve and the middle ofthe armhole and I put those together and then work in between those areas put inas many pins as you feel you need but again you don't have to pin here youcan simply go to the Machine and make sure that you match everything up sewingalong if you are a beginner I would recommend that you pin same for the backhopefully you can see the sleeve is now attached into the armhole and we'regoing to sew from one side seam all the way up and over the sleeve cap down tothe other side seam following the seam allowance in your individual pattern inmy case that's three eighths one centimeter work your way around thesphere with a backstitch at the start and at the end try and match up both ofthe edges all the way along and there may be times where you need to give thearmhole a little bit of a pull so that it lines up with the sleeve constantlycheck underneath that you're not accidentally catching anything you wantboth layers to be nice and flat and concentrate on one area at a time don'tthink you're going to be able to move all the way around the sleeve in onesmooth motion you're going to need to prepare an area so an area prepare anarea so an area the sleeves have both been inserted and once they were sewn Ioverlocked them or surge them just like so using the same technique that Ishowed previously with the trousers surging relatively close to the originalstitching line I then press them and we're ready to move on to the side seamsnow if you don't have access to an overlocker or serger and you want to addSleeps your garment you can use a flat felled or French seam to soak those infeel free to add top stitching or edge stitching to any of the seams but you soit's totally up to you the next step to finishing our garment is to sew the sideseams which is also going to incorporate the underarm seam of the sleeve and thevents on the side once sewn you're going to end up with a side seam and underarmseam that looks like this with Prust vent or slit ready to stitch atthe end the final finish here would be the hem of the sleeve and the hem of thegarment the first thing I'd like you to do is if you want to over lock or searchyour hems you can complete the front the back and the sleeve hem cutting nothingaway just finishing the edges however you have the option to press these underso if you don't have access to an overlocker or serger or you don't wantto do this part please feel free to skip it next if you are using an overlockeror serger you are going to run down side seam so we'll begin on the underarm ofthe sleeve so over the join between the sleeve and the body and sew around thecurve in one process then the edge of the vent can be completed in a separateprocess I would recommend that you send the seam allowances between the sleeveand the garment in opposite directions so this one has gone towards the bodythe other one will go towards the sleeve this means when we sew them togetherthere is less bulk in that area let me give you some tips for over lockingaround curves my main piece of advice when you're sewing around a curve on theoverlocker or serger is to try and feed the fabric in as if it's straight so ifyou're sewing a concave curve you're going to be pulling more of the fabricround and it might be buckling up on this side but whatever you're feeding inis straight the stitching ends up straight on the edge the opposite way ifyou're sewing a convex curve you're going to be feeding and pulling thefabric around so that you're feeding it into the machine once you've over lockedor finished the edges match up the underarm seam with the seam allowancesgoing in opposite directions pin the rest of the seam together starting fromthe sleeve hem and working all the way down the side seam of the body if youdon't have access to an overlocker or serger you can complete a French seamwith a vent or slit at the bottom of it it's alittle bit trickier the other option is that you simply sew your seam allowanceslike we're doing here and then press them open tuck the edges of the seamallowances on and edge stitch close to that so thatyou have a little feature on the right side of your garment the vents or slitson your pattern at the sides might be slightly different to mine you just needto work out where the pattern requires you to stop sewing the side seam in mypattern it is in line with the end of this curve here so approximately abouthere I know because I have a little notch on my hem that I am going to befolding back all of this section like so therefore I'm actually going to need tocome away from my one centimeter I'm not following this curve around I have onecentimeter seam allowance or 3/8 up here and I'm gonna be sewing straight down tothis point where I will be stop sewing do check your individual pattern mypattern might be more shapely at the side seams because it is a femaledesigned scrub top just make sure that both sides are symmetrical so on thesewing machine following your seam allowance stop sewing where the slitwill begin making sure that you back stitch to secure this area use a seamroll to successfully press open at the seam allowances you'll just pop thatinside all the way along pressing the seam allowances openfor the slit at the bottom I have a notch along the bottom edge that showsme where I need to depress this back and I stopped sewing in the right place so Iwas able to give this a nice press in position now we have the final things todo hem the sleeves and hem at the hem of the top sewing around the slit openingsas well the hem on the garment that I'm working with asks you to fold onecentimetre or three-eighths press it and then two centimetres or three quartersof an inch and press it and you will need to do that for the front and theback of the garment this is why you don't necessarily need to over lock orSerge the edge here however if you have overlooked or surgedyou could simply press it up by the total amount three centimeters andand 1/4 so that you don't have the added bulk of folding it over the sleeves onmy garment are a fold of two centimeters 3/4 of an inchand I've pressed it and then again of two centimeters 3/4 of an inch and Ijust use my little sleeve role or seam roll to work my way around that sleeveopening again you do not need to have over locked or surged the seam allowancehere let's look at how we can finish the corner between the hem and the slipneatly I'm going to share with you a couple of different options for miteringthis corner this is my preferred method and the first method that I'm going toshare with you to begin you're going to need to press the hem up by the amountthat your patent requires and press the facing for the slit in you could pressthe hem up with the double fold or you could press it up with a single fold itdoesn't matter whichever works best for you using a pair of scissors you'regoing to once it cuts right into the corner of wire at the hem and the slitmeet you want to cut through all of the layers of fabric except for the frontlayer so you're cutting through the hem and the slit then you can open up thelayers and you should find that there is a clip on the hem edge and also on theedge of the slit fold the fabric so that it's right sides together matching thetwo clips together so the clip on the hem with the clip on the edge of theslit facing position in a pen now you are going to sew from where the twoclips are to the corner that you should be able to see here between the twocreases the crease of the hem being pressed up and of the facing for theslit you're welcome to draw this on with chalk if you prefer so that you have aline to follow at the sewing machine at the sewing machine you want to sew allthe way across this drawn line from the very corner and the folded edge of thefabric you want to sew on and off this edge all the way across to the clippoints hopefully you can see that I've been to the sewing machine and sewedthis the next step is that we want to cut away some of this extra fabric toremove the bulk however I recommend that you turn it around to the right sidefirst just to check that you're happy with the finished results take a pair ofscissors and cut away the bulk you want to cut very close to the corner edge orthe folded edge of the fabric press open the seam allowances you can use a pointpress if you like to help you and use a point turner to turn it around to theright side and poke at the corner now this is my preferred method of a miteredcorner it looks really neat and it removes all of the bulk give it a finalpress in position another option is to of course simply press up the hem andthen press over the facing for the slit and you can use that as a quickalternative finally you can use the same method that we use for my tween thecorners of the pocket again you're going to need to press up the hem and thefacing for the slit as you desire unfold the hem in the facing then fold the workback in on an angle you're folding almost a triangle shape here so that youcan match up the creases for the ham and the creases for the slit on top of oneanother then you would proceed to fold up the hem and the facing just like sothe same technique we used for the pockets and you can complete this with adouble fold to the hem as well if you prefer personally I didn't like thismethod as much on the pattern that I'm working with simply because the facingfor the slit is quite large so it doesn't match up with the seam allowancefor the hem might at the corners as you desire and then we can head to thesewing machine to sew the hem I'm going to be sewing posts for the top insideedge approximately an eighth of an inch away two to three millimeters for theham of the sleeves you can go all the way around and I'd recommend using theedge stitching foot which looks like this and that's what I used on thetrousers for the garment you can either use the edge stitching foot or you canuse the standard foot and move the needle and use some of the edges theinside or outside edges of your standard foot for the sleeves it's easy you'rejust going to go all the way around for the hem you're going to need to start atthe edge so going across the edge of the slit so you need to work out whereyou're going to put your foot down and move your needle tofor the bit that you fold it up and where that's positioned on the metalplate so that you can start at the very edge and continue across feel free toincrease the stitch length when you're doing your hemming if you would likecomplete the same technique for the front and the back of the garment andonce you have sewn all the way across the hem the final thing you need to dois to sew your slit and a little bit of reinforcement now you're going to wantto sew across where the opening is here you can obviously eyeball this and justdo it on the machine or you're a little bit of extra guidance you could drawthis on with chalk or a removable pen I simply took a right angle from the seamallowance and drew a line across at the opening to my slit in terms of the linesdown the side you're going to be sewing from hem up across and down the otherside so you could either use the edge of the slit here and so perhaps acentimeter 3/8 away or I prefer to keep my stitching line parallel to my sideseam so I actually measured 3 centimeters from my side seam and drew aline that's an inch and a quarter really it's up to you and the pattern thatyou're working with what you choose to stitch here so from the bottom of thehem and back stitch again you're welcome to increase your stitch length if youdesire so up in line with the opening finish with the needle in lift thepresser foot in line with the opening presser foot down and sew across theopening to secure this area and sew all the way down to the hem sewing off and back stitchingwhen it's finished it's going to look something like thisyou can of course also at a bar tack across this opening just to reinforcethat area and help to prevent the side seams from breaking and there you haveit your finished scrub top give your garment a finalpress and it's good to go to new home thank you so much for watching I reallyhope that you enjoyed the video and that you feel more confident with sewing theaspects of the scrubs pattern that perhaps she was struggling with to startwith I wish you all the best with your sewing and thank you for everything thatyou're doing.